Borstal, Past and Present

by Norman Clout

ST. MATTHEW'S CHURCH

GENERAL

Here is no great piece of Gothic architecture, boasting a history over the centuries and included in all the best guide books. Rather we have a simple, homely bulding of Kentish rag-stone, of a design very common in the late Victorian period. Alas, no distinguished belfry, but an unassuming little tower containing one solitary bell, which for years has aroused very mixed feelings in its hearers! Many, however, do appreciate its call to worship, which can only be described as "homely" - in keeping with the church itself. Certainly when, from time to time, it has been under repair, the sound has been conspicuous by its absence.

THE EXTERIOR

Vestry foundation stone

Due to its location on a steep hillside, the Church is perforce orientated North to South, instead of the more usual East to West pattern. The present chancel and vestries were added some twenty years after the opening of the original building. There had been no Anglican Church in Borstal until the Church School was built on the bank opposite in 1868 and used for a few years also as a Church. The whole area was at that time part of the Parish of St. Margaret, Rochester. The foundation stone of St. Matthew's Church itself was at laid on July 29th 1878 by the Earl of Darnley, whose family were for centuries resident at Cobham Hall, the famous Tudor mansion five miles westward across the River Medway. The first service was held in the new Church on July 22nd 1879 and the building eventually became the base of the newly-constituted Parish of St. Matthew, hived off from the very extensive Parish of St. Margaret. A few years later, a Faculty was obtained for the extension of the Church to accomodate the present Choir Stalls, Sanctuary and Choir and Clergy vestries - the cost (in 1904) a mere 1,285! The foundation stone for this extension was laid by the Countess of Darnley in 1905.

THE INTERIOR

Come in through the "West Porch" (in which, every Easter, a beautiful "Easter Garden" is re-created). As we emerge into the nave, we will at once sense that "homely" atmosphere which the exterior may have led us to expect. The design is simple - a nave boasting only a central aisle, and having colour-washed walls, below a solidly-constructed timber root of the "upturned boat" variety. The tall lancet-type "West End" windows throw plenty of light forward up the nave. Between them hangs the rope for our one bell. nearby, we have a stone font of conventional design, and in the North-West corner the War Memorial commemorating the fallen in both World Wars.

THE NAVE

Before we proceed up the aisle, we observe a plaque to Mr. George Bells, a one-time Choirmaster who did so much for music here, evidenced by a still well-stocked Choir music cupboard. Mr. Bell was a very well-known figure in the 1920s-1930s in the Medway area, as Clerk to the Governors of Sir Joseph Williamson's Mathematical School for Boys and the Grammar School for Girls, Rochester. The only stained glass in the nave is in a memorial window to Kenneth Grant, dated 1954. The handsome brass eagle lectern was the gift of the children of the Church in 1905 (the cost 20 - but how much that meant in those days!)

THE SCREEN

One of the most striking features of the Church is the intricately carved wooden Choir screen, through which we approach the Sanctuary from the nave. The dominating motif is that of thorns, and surmounting it is a fine crucifix. The screen was the gift in 1907 of the widow of Alderman Walter Coward Lakin J.P. It also incorporates carvings of grapes and wheat, symbolising the Eacharist, together with IHS (the first three letters of the Greek name for Jesus) and the symbols for Alpha and Omega (the First and the Last). In addition, we find what is known as the "Paisley Pattern", the symbol of opposites (Good and Evil).

THE CHOIR

The solid Choir Stalls are inscribed "to the memory of Henry Joseph Bristow, the gift of his widow and daughter, November 1905". Plaques on these recall some of our most faithful members and singers in the past two decades. An unintentional, and certainly unusual, memorial is also to be found there. One Choir Stall near the organ has a deep score mark across the music-rest. Many years ago, the late Miss Edna Edwards, one of our most faithful members, who was Vergess, was cleaning the Choir Stalls when one of the organ pipes fell from above and nearly hit her. The mark it left in the woodwork can still be seen to this day.

THE SANCTUARY

The solid and well-carved Communion Rail dates from Easter 1908 - "To the glory of God and in memory of Catherine Benifold, who endowed the benefice - the gift of the first Vicar 1908". The Sanctuary paving is of marble mosaic, laid in 1910, and its design incorporates the outline of a fish - the early sign on the Christian - and again the Greek letters, Alpha and Omega. As befits a Church of simple design, the altar is a plain wooden construction, backed by a reredo - a handsome piece of wood carving. The three panels illustrate the parables of the Sower and the Prodigal Son and, between, the Transfigurations. This is of Victorian design but was renovated in 1947 when, after being in the Garrison Church, Old Brompton, it was presented to St. Matthew's by the Norton family who were at one time so well-known in the village. The "North" window is a memorial to two sisters, Marian Tuff and Martha Emily Browne. The great chancel "East" window shows the figures of St. Margaret and St. Matthew, patrons Saints of the two parishes concerned, and was presented by Thomas Tuff "of the parish of St. Margaret's, Borstal" in 1885. It is a memorial to the Rev. W. H. Drage, a Vicar of the old St. Margaret's for thirty-three years, who dies in 1865 and to his son. In addition, it includes a memorial to an organist of the Church Mr. George Murton "in remembrance of his gentility and his loving works amongst the poor".

One item of unusual interest within the Sanctuary is a prayer-desk which bears a brass plaque recording the marriage of Doctor and Mrs. Roche, the first to take place in our Church (in 1902). The bride was a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Craske of Borstal Manor - featured later in these notes. We are told that, on this occasion, the bride and her father walked up Manor Lane to the Church, followed by her pet dog, who dutifully remained at the Church porch during the ceremony, and escorted the bridal party back to the Manor afterwards!

THE ORGAN

In the early days, singing was led by a harmonium and the first pipe organ was installed in 1883, at a total cost of 293. It was built by F. H. Browne of Deal, founder of Messrs. F. H. Browne and Sons Ltd. of Canterbury. The first organ consisted of Great and Swell manuals and pedal organ. There were twelve stops and the design and overall work were highly commended by Mr. Hopkins, Organist of Rochester Cathedral, who "presided" at the organ at the Dedication Service (fully choral) on September 15th 1883. He declared that "Borstal will have an organ it can be proud of". This instrument seems to have served well for a succession of organists, including Mr. George Murton (whose name appears in the Chancel window), Mr. A. V. Dale (who went to St John's, Chatham) and Mr. Sharman (whose appointment was conditional on his taking a course of lessons as he was "at present very much out of practice"!). In 1890. Mr. Browne was asked if the excessively heavy touch could be lightened. One of the joys of the present-day organ is its lightness of touch.

Probably th emost important piece of organ history is the fact that for two years in the early 1930s, the organist was no less a personality than Percy Whitlock. He was a Chatham boy, by birth, and has been Assitant Organist at Rochester Cathedral, but owing to indifferent health, changed places with Mr. J. A. Levett who had been playing at Borstal (and was eventually Assistant Organist at Rochester Cathedral for over forty years). Percy Whitlock left the district to go to Bournemouth, where one of the most famous Compton organs had been installed in the much-vaunted new Pavilion. He was appointed "Municipal Organist" and his regular broadcasts from there in pre-war days made him nationally famous. Percy Whitlock was a prolific composer and for his organ and choral compositions is known through the English-speaking world among Church musicians. Incidentally, one of his settings of the Communion Service (in E flat) was dedicated to George Bell and the Choir of St. Matthew'w, Borstal, and we sing the "Sanctus", "Benedictus" and "Agnus Dei" from this setting at our Sung Eucharist on Sunday mornings.

In 1961 the organ was completely re-built and a separate console installed by Messrs. Browne. Under their care, it has erved well and was thoroughly overhauled by them in April/May 1978. Numerous eminent organists have practised and taken early examinations of this useful instrument (which has Great and Swell and Pedal departments, with nineteen speaking stops and three couplers.)

THE LAMPS

Before we leave the Church to explore the Parish, we must deal with something for which St. Matthew's has become best-known, not so much locally, strangely enough, as throughout the English-speaking world. For the story of The Sanctuary Lamps hung before the altar of St. Matthew's has been widely printed in books and magazines, so here it is:

For many years, one of our Church wardens was Donal Maxwell, a well-known writer and artist who lived in Borstal Road. Both for his work for the Admiralty and for his interests as an artist and writer, he was a great traveller, home and abroad, and although all of his books are now alas out of print, they are a treasure-house for anybody fortunate enough to possess them. In 1912, being in the Middle East, he visited Syria and made for Damascus. Here he found the "Street called Straight" where once stood the house to which Saul (later St. Paul) was taken after being blinded in his conversion experience on the Damascus Road. In this street, Donald Maxwell came upon the workshop of an old Arab brass-worker. He so admired some lamps being fashioned by the old man that he ordered a set of them to take home to his own Parish Church, promising to call back for them at a later date. The intervention of the 1914 World War prevented this and the Arab was pressed into service by the conquering Turks to make munitions for them. It so happened that Maxwell was back in the area in 1920 and, out of curiosity, again made his way to the "Street called Straight". To his astonishment, the old Arab was still there and ran out to greet him - and to reveal to him that, in spite of everything, the lamps ordered had been made and buried throughout the war under the floor of his house. He was a Christian and, knowing of the destination of the lamps, refused to take anything for them. They were brought home to Borstal and, on the day of the Feast of St. Paul, were dedicated by the Bishop to the memory of two of Donald Maxwell's friends who had been killed in the war.

The lamps were orginally lit by oil, but were later electrified owing to the fire risk, ever since being lighted throughout each Service. Apart from the central lamp, they appear to be in pairs but infact the handworking of each one is different, and perhaps unique in a Christian Church, each incorporates the Moslem Star and Crescent, but (the Arab was a Christian) surmounted by the Christian Cross.

The story of these lamps has literally gone round the world and visitors still come from as far afield as Australia and New Zealand to seek them out. And here in Borstal, we feel we have a very precious link with St. Paul and his conversion on the Damascus road, all those years ago.

LIST OF INCUMBENTS

Curates-in-charge

1880 - William McDonald Bottome
1884 - Josiah Marling Apperley
1885 - George Farmer
1892 - George Philip Browne
1893 - Herbert Kingdom Haslam
1895 - Walter Cole Greenaway
1899 - Harold Wheatley
1900 - Arthur Copper-Marsdin

Vicars

1902 - Arthur Copper-Marsdin
1906 - Frederick John Everett
1916 - Arthur J. M. Ffinch
1944 - John S. Speers
1950 - Frank Leonard Mitchell
1956 - Malcolm Bryan Perkins
1961 - Edward Leslie Norman
1977 - John Arthur Peal

CLEAVE WARNE HALL

For very many years, our Church had no suitable home for any of its activities apart from the regular Church Services. This was eventually rectified in the 1950s when a band of hard-working volunteers set to work on the building of a Parish Hall behind the Church. The mainspring of this big job - and the designer - was Mr. Harold Harrison, whose experience and expertise have been invaluable to us in so many ways, but nowhere more than in the Hall. With a seating capacity of one hundred and twenty, this hall has become indispensable both to the Church and to the whole community. Harvest Suppers, Pantomimes, Concerts, Fellowship Meetings - even, in emergency, our actual Church Services - have all found accomodation here, as well as many other local activities, such as Women's Institutes, the Darby and Joan Club - and of course the Girl Guides and Brownies. The name of the Hall comes to us from the family of a former Vicar of Stoke. After his death, his widow, Mrs. Cleave Warne, and her indefatigable daughter Miss Gladys Warne, settled in Borstal and devoted the rest of their lives to the service of our Church. The foundation stone was laid by the late Mrs. Beatrice Chavasse, the wife of the then Bishop of Rochester, Dr. C. M. Chavasse, on the 19th July 1952. The Hall was finally opened on 7th April 1956.